Swapping the knobs and pulls on an old dresser or a row of kitchen drawers is one of the cheapest ways to change how a room looks. It's also one of those jobs that goes fine right up until you drill a hole a quarter inch off, or find out the new pull doesn't line up with the old holes. A little measuring up front saves most of that trouble.
Here's how we'd install drawer pulls and cabinet knobs, start to finish, plus what to do when a drawer sticks or won't open at all. The examples use cast iron hardware from our Knockers, Handles & Pulls collection, but the steps work for almost any knob or pull.
What you'll need
- A tape measure and a pencil
- A drill and a bit that matches your screws
- A screwdriver (a hand screwdriver is easier to control on the last few turns)
- Painter's tape, or a cardboard template you make yourself
- A scrap block of wood to hold behind the drawer front while you drill
- The right screws, which we cover below
Step 1: Measure center to center
Pulls are sized by the distance between their two screw holes, measured from the center of one hole to the center of the other. That number matters more than the overall length of the pull. If you're replacing old pulls and want to reuse the holes, measure the old holes and buy a pull with the same spacing. Common spacings include 3 inches, 3 3/4 inches (96 mm) and 5 inches (128 mm).
Don't assume. Hold the new pull up to the old holes, or measure its feet directly, before you drill anything. If the spacing doesn't match, you'll need to fill the old holes with wood filler and paint or stain over them, or choose a pull with a backplate wide enough to cover them.
Knobs are easier. They use a single hole, so any knob will go where an old knob was.
Step 2: Decide where the hardware goes
On drawers, center the knob or pull side to side. On shallow drawers, center it top to bottom too. On deep drawers, many people place it in the upper third so it's easy to reach without bending.
On cabinet doors, put the knob or pull on the side opposite the hinges, usually 2 to 3 inches in from the corner. Upper cabinets get hardware near the bottom corner, and lower cabinets near the top corner.
Wide drawers can take two knobs or a longer pull. The long cabinet pull measures about 8.5 inches and suits a wide drawer or a pantry door, while a smaller pull like the 5 inch cabinet handle fits a standard dresser drawer.
Step 3: Make a template and mark the holes
If you're doing more than one or two drawers, make a template. A strip of cardboard or a scrap of thin wood with the holes marked and pre-punched means every pull lands in the same spot. Put painter's tape on the drawer front, line up the template, and mark the holes on the tape with a pencil. The tape also helps keep the bit from wandering and protects the finish.
Step 4: Drill clean holes
Pick a bit just slightly larger than the screw so it slides through without binding. Hold a scrap block of wood tight against the back of the drawer front where the bit will come out. That keeps the back from splintering. Drill straight in, not at an angle, and go slowly as you break through.
Step 5: Choose the right screws and attach
Screw length is where most installs go wrong. The screw has to pass through the drawer front and still thread far enough into the knob or pull to hold. A thin drawer front needs a shorter screw, and a thick door or a drawer with a false front needs a longer one. Measure the thickness of your drawer front before you buy screws.
Check what comes in the box, too. Our star cabinet knob and horseshoe star knob each come with a 1 inch screw. Several of our pulls, including the arched drawer pull, ship without mounting screws, so you'll pick those up separately. Bring the pull with you to the hardware store so you can test the fit.
Some knobs arrive with the mounting hardware already attached to the back. The ship wheel cabinet knob and the seahorse drawer pull are both set up that way, so you only need the hole and a little care when tightening.
Tighten until the hardware is snug and doesn't spin, then stop. Cast iron is heavy and solid, but overtightening can crush soft wood or strip the threads. A hand screwdriver gives you a better feel for that last turn than a drill does.
Front-mounted pulls
A few pulls attach from the front, with screws going through the feet straight into the drawer. The arched drawer pull is a good example. So is our 5.5 inch antique cast iron door handle, which fastens with four screws through its two flared feet. It's made for cabinets as well as barn doors, gates and sheds. Mounting screws aren't included, so plan to buy them. For these, use wood screws, drill small pilot holes so the wood doesn't split, and pick a screw head that looks good, since it stays visible.
Quick fixes for a stuck drawer
While you've got the tools out, it's worth fixing any drawer that sticks. Here are the usual causes and what to try.
Something is caught inside
When a drawer won't open at all, the most common reason is an item that slid up and is wedged against the frame. Pull out the drawer above or below if you can and reach in to free it. If you can't, slide a thin ruler or putty knife through the gap at the top and press the item down while you pull gently.
The wood has swollen
Wood drawers can swell in humid weather and rub. Once you get the drawer out, rub a candle or a block of paraffin wax along the wooden runners and the bottom edges. If it's still tight, a light sanding on the spots that look shiny from rubbing usually helps.
The slides are loose or off track
On drawers with metal slides, check that every screw holding the slides is tight and that the drawer is sitting in both tracks. Most slides have a lever or tab you press to release the drawer so you can reseat it.
The pull keeps coming loose
If a pull wiggles every time you open the drawer, the screw is either too short or the hole has worn out. Try a slightly longer screw first. If the hole is stripped, fill it with wood glue and a few toothpicks, let it dry, trim flush and drive the screw back in.
Drawer pulls and knobs FAQ
How do you measure for drawer pulls?
Measure center to center, from the middle of one screw hole to the middle of the other. That's the number to match when you replace an old pull.
How do you install a cabinet knob?
Mark the spot, drill one hole straight through with a bit just larger than the screw, push the screw through from the back and thread on the knob until it's snug.
Can I put a pull where a knob used to be?
Yes, but you'll need a second hole. You can center the pull over the old hole and drill two new ones, then fill the old hole, or pick a pull with a backplate that covers it.
How do you get a stuck drawer unstuck?
Work out whether something is caught inside, the wood has swollen or a slide has come off its track. Free the jam, wax the runners or reseat the slide, depending on the cause.
For shops that carry hardware
If you run a gift shop or home store, decorative knobs and pulls are a small, easy add near the register or in a home and garden section. Our Trade Showroom lists the full wholesale lineup, with a $200 opening order minimum.
Pick one drawer and start there
You don't have to redo the whole kitchen in a weekend. Pick the drawer you open most, measure its holes tonight, and choose one knob or pull that fits. Once you've done one, the rest go fast. Browse cast iron drawer pulls and knobs to find a style for it.